You can own property in California regardless of immigration status, so the real question is not whether you can buy but which loan you qualify for. Green-card holders and many work-visa buyers (H-1B, L-1, O-1, or holders of an Employment Authorization Document, or EAD) are treated much like citizens for a conventional loan, with as little as roughly 3 to 5% down. Buyers without US income or credit often use a foreign-national loan, roughly 25 to 30% down at a higher rate. Self-employed buyers can use a bank-statement loan, which qualifies you on about 12 months of business deposits and often needs around 15% down. If you have no Social Security number, an ITIN (Individual Taxpayer Identification Number) can stand in its place.
This page walks through each of those financing paths and what you need to qualify. It is education about financing, not immigration-law advice, so for the loan side, talk to a licensed lender.
Start Here: Owning a Home and Borrowing for One Are Two Different Things
You can own property in California regardless of immigration status; writing an offer, going through escrow (the neutral third party that holds the money during a sale so neither side can walk off with it), and taking title (legal ownership of the property, your name on the deed) are all open to you. What varies with status is not ownership but the loan product, the specific mortgage a lender will write, at what down payment and rate.
What actually varies with status is the loan product, the specific kind of mortgage a lender will write for you. A green-card holder, a person on a work visa, a student, and a buyer with no US income at all can all own a home. They just qualify for different loans, with different down payments and rates. So the useful question is not "can I own here," it is "which loan can I access right now, and how do I move toward a better one."
One thing to be clear about up front: this is education about financing, not immigration-law advice, and nothing here is a ruling on your status. For that, you talk to an immigration attorney. For the loan side, you talk to a licensed lender. Lily Garipova is a Realtor, not a lender, so everything below describes how a licensed lender generally approaches these situations, not a promise about your specific file.
How a Lender Generally Treats Each Status
How a lender treats you depends on status. Green-card holders and many work-visa buyers (H-1B, L-1, O-1, or EAD) are generally treated much like citizens for a conventional loan, from roughly 3 to 5% down; temporary or uncertain statuses are weighed more cautiously; buyers without US income route to a foreign-national loan at roughly 25 to 30% down; and an ITIN can stand in for an SSN. These are general patterns, not guarantees, and a licensed lender confirms your exact numbers.
Permanent residents and many work statuses. If you have a green card (permanent resident), or you are on a status like H-1B, L-1, or O-1, or you hold an EAD (an Employment Authorization Document, the card that lets you work in the US), a lender will generally treat you much like a US citizen for a conventional loan. A conventional loan is a standard, non-government mortgage, the most common type. On a home you plan to live in, that can mean a down payment as low as roughly 3 to 5% at standard rates, provided your credit and income check out.
Temporary or uncertain statuses. Some statuses get weighed more cautiously for that same conventional loan on an owner-occupied home. Short-term humanitarian parole, or an F-1 or J-1 student visa, can be treated less favorably for that specific product, because the lender is weighing whether the status is reasonably expected to continue over the life of the loan, not judging you. The reason is structural, not personal, and we will come back to it in a moment.
Statuses that route to a foreign-national loan. Some buyers, especially those without US income or US credit history, are pointed toward a foreign-national loan: a mortgage built for exactly that situation. It generally asks for a larger down payment, roughly 25 to 30%, at a higher rate, and it is collateralized against the property itself. It is a real, usable path to ownership, just a more expensive one.
ITIN instead of an SSN. You do not always need a Social Security Number to participate. An SSN is the number most US workers use for credit and taxes. Buyers without one can often use an ITIN, an Individual Taxpayer Identification Number, which the IRS issues for tax filing. Some loan products accept an ITIN for credit and qualification. Whether a given program does is something a licensed lender confirms for your case.
The Underwriting Logic, Explained Plainly
A lender weighs temporary status cautiously for one mechanical reason: is your status reasonably expected to continue over the life of the loan, which can run 30 years? It is lending against an income stream and wants confidence that stream will not be cut off before the loan is paid down. It is not personal.
So a strong job and a good income are not the issue. The issue is the bank-side risk that the income could be interrupted by a status that is, by design, temporary. That is the whole logic. It also means the weight is not absolute. A long stretch of time in the US, plus an established US credit history, can partly counterbalance a temporary-status concern. Lenders see this pattern often: the longer your track record here, the less a temporary label dominates the decision.
If You Are Self-Employed or Paid on a 1099
If you are self-employed or paid on a 1099 (independent workers who get a 1099 tax form instead of a W-2 paycheck), conventional underwriting usually wants about two years of tax returns before it counts your income, which is a real obstacle for recent arrivals. A bank-statement loan is the common route around it, which this section explains.
There is another route. A bank-statement loan is a non-QM loan, meaning it sits outside the standard Qualified Mortgage box that most conventional loans live in. Instead of two years of returns, it generally looks at roughly 12 months of deposits into your business bank account to gauge your income. The trade-off is a higher down payment, often around 15%, and a higher rate. For a self-employed buyer who is doing well but cannot show it on paper the conventional way, a licensed lender can tell you whether this fits.
Building US Credit History
US lenders want US credit history, and a strong record from your home country usually does not transfer, so newcomers build it the ordinary way: a secured credit card, becoming an authorized user on someone else's established account, and paying every bill on time, every month. It is slow and unglamorous, and it works. The longer you have been here building it, the more options open up, which ties back to the underwriting logic above.
Conventional vs. FHA, in Short
A conventional loan and an FHA loan are two different investor boxes with different rules: an FHA loan, government-backed and insured by the Federal Housing Administration, is generally more forgiving (a lower credit floor, more leniency on something like a past late payment), while a conventional loan generally wants stronger credit. Neither is "better" in the abstract; a licensed lender routes you to whichever box you fit.
When the Owner-Occupied Box Is Not Open Yet
If the conventional owner-occupied loan is not open today, that is a starting point, not a dead end, usually a sequence with several on-ramps: buy as an investment property first, pay cash, add a co-borrower with W-2 income, or wait for a status change and refinance.
- Buy as an investment property first. With a larger down payment, often around 25%, status tends to be weighted less, because the projected rent helps support the loan rather than your status alone. You can move in later, or refinance into an owner-occupied loan once your situation changes.
- Pay cash. If you have the funds, a cash purchase sidesteps the loan question entirely, and you can refinance to pull money back out later.
- Add a co-borrower. A spouse or relative with W-2 income and qualifying credit can borrow alongside you, which can open the conventional box you could not reach alone.
- Wait for a status change, then refinance. Sometimes the cleanest move is to buy through one of the paths above now, then refinance into better terms when your status shifts.
The point is that there is almost always a sequence that gets you from where you are to where you want to be.
The Free First Step: A Soft-Pull Pre-Approval
The free first step is a soft-pull pre-approval. A soft pull is a soft credit check, the kind that does not lower your credit score, costs nothing, takes roughly a couple of days, and tells you which programs you actually qualify for and your realistic price ceiling. From there, a lender can issue a pre-approval: a letter stating how much you can borrow, which is what makes your offer credible to sellers. This is the recommended first move, and a licensed lender runs it. You learn where you stand without spending a dollar or dinging your credit.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I buy a home right after moving to the US?
Possibly, depending on the loan you qualify for rather than on how recently you arrived. If you have qualifying status, income, and some US credit, a conventional loan may be open quickly. If not, paths like a foreign-national loan or a cash purchase can still let you buy. A licensed lender can run a soft credit check and tell you what is realistic for your timeline.
Do I need a Social Security number to get a mortgage?
Not always. Some buyers without a Social Security Number (SSN) qualify using an Individual Taxpayer Identification Number (ITIN) instead, and some loan products accept it for credit and qualification. Which programs do is something a licensed lender confirms for your specific situation. The absence of an SSN by itself does not close the door.
I'm on a student visa (F-1). Can I buy a home?
Yes, you can own a home on an F-1 visa. The financing is the variable: a lender may weigh a student visa more cautiously for a standard conventional loan, because it looks at whether your status is reasonably expected to continue over the life of the loan. Other paths, such as a larger-down-payment purchase, a co-borrower, or a foreign-national loan, are generally still available. A licensed lender can map which ones fit.
I'm self-employed without two years of tax returns. Is there an option?
Often, yes. A bank-statement loan can look at roughly 12 months of business bank-account deposits instead of two years of tax returns, typically in exchange for a higher down payment (often around 15%) and a higher rate. It is a non-QM loan, meaning it sits outside the standard conventional box. A licensed lender can tell you whether your deposits support the loan you want.
How much do I need to put down on a foreign-national loan?
Generally in the range of roughly 25 to 30% down, at a higher rate than a conventional loan, with the loan secured against the property. The exact figure depends on the lender, the property, and the program, all of which move. A licensed lender can quote your actual numbers. It is a more expensive path, but it is a real one to ownership.
Where do I start if my status is uncertain?
Start with a no-cost soft credit check, which does not affect your score and shows which programs you qualify for and your price ceiling. That turns a vague worry into a concrete picture of your options. From there you can decide whether to buy now through one of the available paths or wait and refinance later. A licensed lender runs the check, and Lily can connect you with one.
Let's Find Your Path
If any of this sounds like your situation, the next step is small and free: a conversation, then a soft credit check that tells you where you actually stand. There is no pressure and no obligation, and consultations are free. I work in English and Russian, so you can ask your questions in whichever language is easier, and I will connect you with a licensed lender who handles immigrant and non-W-2 buyers all the time.
Lily Garipova has closed 104 documented transactions across the Bay Area, more than $115M in total volume, the large majority on the buyer side, which means she has worked with many buyers on exactly these questions. She has been in real estate since 2007 and California licensed since 2016 (Cal DRE #02010731). Send me a message at lilyagaripova@gmail.com, call or text me at (415) 910-3958, or find me at lilygaripova.com. The office is in Fremont, CA. Reach out, and we will figure out your path together.